ALUMINIUM REPAIR RODS
Pro pack 50 x Rods
Rods are made in Australia and contain no lead or cadmium
Ultra bond allows you to make fast easy repairs or even fabricate in Aluminium and other non ferrous metals, using just a BBQ gas bottle or a handyman gas torch.
ULTRA BOND aluminium repair rod is a strong, easily applied weld or braze for repairing or fabricating aluminium and other non-ferrous metals. It is also compatible with Zinc, Copper, Brass, Bronze, Die Cast, Pot Metals, Pewter and other non-ferrous metals. It is not compatible with ferrous metals (metals with an iron content). If in doubt, if a magnet sticks to the metal, ULTRA BOND won't.
ULTRA BOND'S most valuable use, however, is for repairing broken aluminium or fabricating aluminium pieces. This is because the rod is applied at a low enough temperature (380oC) to avoid melting, warping or crystallizing the base metal. The rod has a higher tensile strength than aluminium. ULTRA BOND actually penetrates aluminium chemically while in the molten state to form a "fusion weld" that is stronger than the aluminium being welded. In addition, ULTRA BOND is easily applied "in house" with a small torch. It is much less expensive than conventional aluminium welding, welding contractors or part replacement.
- ALL YOU NEED TO USE ULTRA BOND IS a heat source such as an LPG gas bottle or Barbecue gas bottle, a torch and something to clean the metal with such as a stainless steel wire brush and with a little practice following our step by step instructions you will be able to quickly and easily make repairs in aluminium and other non ferrous metals
STEP 1 CLEANING: Aluminium to be welded should be thoroughly cleaned to remove all paints, oils, oxidation and other contaminants. A Stainless steel brush ,A brass wire brush or aluminium oxide sandpaper may be used to clean the metal. Also, a clean file or grinder work well if followed by stainless steel brushing. If the aluminium is anodized, the anodized coating must be filed, ground or sanded off. Paint may be removed with paint thinner or blistered with a torch when brushed. Always brush the metal until shiny to remove all oxidation. Metal will be oxidized some under flame, so occasional brushing during a lengthy heating is useful. Always file cast aluminium and die cast as a stainless steel brush won't clean case aluminium adequately. If the aluminium is oily, heat the metal and wash with vinegar or muriatic acid, rinse with more vinegar. Don't rinse with water. No need to wipe dry.
STEP 2 TINNING: After the metal to be welded is clean, it should be heated with a torch. If possible, this should be done without playing the torch on the immediate weld area, and with a neutral or carbonizing flame. When the metal is hot enough to melt ULTRA BOND to a shiny wet appearance the areas to be welded should be tinned by scratching or "scrubbing" the rod on the metal. This breaks the surface tension of the puddle and allows the molten rod to break down oxidation that may be present on the surface of the metal. If you suspect that the puddle is not penetrating through to the metal, scratch the metal through the molten puddle with a stainless steel wire or a sharp knife or tool. Another variation on this strategy is to brush the puddle away while it is still hot, then tin the surface a second time. When repairing a crack, tin both sides of the crack. When joining two pieces of metal,tin both pieces. When repairing a hole or leaking boat trivet, tin the area around the hole.
STEP 3 WELDING: When all appropriate areas have been tinned, brush rod tip from tinned area to tinned area to join the tinned surfaces with a continuous puddle or bead. ULTRA BOND has good surface tension in the puddle and will easily span small gaps, holes and cracks. ULTRA BOND penetrates the surface of aluminium, forming an extra strong bond, and efficient joints are formed by bridging. Since ULTRA BOND is stronger than aluminium, the joints will be stronger than the surrounding area. Let the weld air cool. DO NOT QUENCH.
Note: We have Stainless steel and Brass wire brushes available separately if you need them for cleaning the metal before the repair
Want to see more? watch ultra bond in action on the video on our website
Customer review 2019
I just wanted to thank you so much for saving me out of this mess. your product is fantastic!
I'm self employed and the 2010 Hyundai I load T/Diesel began running bad after 185K's on the odometer, I is direct injected and has a tendency to build up carbon/soot in emission, Inter-cooler-EGR valve-inlet manifold-Etc was clogged and inter-cooler had leaks. I purchased four different branded cheap rods on E bay and they caused even more damage to the inter-cooler. vehicle has been out of action for 3 weeks or so. It was at the point where customers had to complain to my clients for the delays in the work. thank god your product arrived this morning. it was so easy to braze.
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2 Reviews Hide Reviews Show Reviews
After trying a couple of different types I gave these a go and they are easy and effective to use. Very happy
I'd seen similar products advertised on Facebook. I was dubious about them, generally if something seems to good to be true, it is.
I'd tried to braze up splits in aluminium irrigation pipe, wall thickness 2mm, with other fluxed aluminium brazing rods sourced locally, but the issue was always the shear amount of heat required to get other rods to bond meant the parent material was molten distorted and more crap came to the surface out of the grain despite prior cleaning. The end result being a very leaky bond, or a big hole melted in the pipe.
Anyway I thought I'd try these low melt point rods, from Robson's. NOt much to lose I reckoned. 50 rods, 100 bucks delivered to Qld from NSW, not coming from the far flung reaches of the globe from dubious uncontactable online companies without a storefront.
I tried the rods out on some offcut of pipe first to refine my technique. Bashing the final cooled product with a hammer to see how good the bond is. I was satisfied that the bond, that's more like a solder, would hold in a practical situation against water pressure.
Anyway, got down to true business with them. 7 split alum pipes fixed in less than 1/2 hr from go to woah. Using stainless wire brush, oxy torch with a number 20 cutting tip as a heat source.
Pipes have been tried out with water pressure, in a couple repairs there is the slightest weep that doesn't even form a drip.
I'm that happy with them to the point I'm even going to have a go at fixing an aluminium radiator with Ultrabond.
It's like a miracle product for those of us who can't justify a tig welder.